Countersinking the Spars

We drilled all the 3/32″ holes, and countersunk all the nutplate holes.  Their depth is easy: they just needed to be flush with the spar.  Tracey deburred while we drilled.

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We stopped a little early because we didn’t have anything to measure how far to countersink the skin attach holes in the flanges.  We were fairly paranoid about countersinking to the correct depth after reading of at least one builder who countersunk his spars too deeply and needed to replace them.  We were determined that wouldn’t be us.

The plans say to drill and dimple a scrap piece of .032″ aluminum and countersink until it fits flush.  The internets say doing this will get you holes that are too deep.  The plans also say to refer to section 5E, which says that when countersinking holes to accept a dimple, countersink until it’s flush, then adjust the microstop countersink cage by “a few clicks deeper”.  Yeah, there’s some precision.

We didn’t have any .032″ scrap aluminum.  .032″ is way thicker than everything we’d been using so far, so I’m not sure why Vans figured we’d have some scrap.  So I ordered the smallest piece of it from Aircraft Spruce that I could.  2′ x 2’….

Berck: 6 hours, Randy: 6 hours, Tracey: 6 hours

So, why are we match drilling this J-channel to the spars?

1/2 an hour was spent trying to figure out why the heck we were drilling J-channel to the spars.  Turns out you just use the spars as a guide to where to drill the holes in the J-channel.  The J-channel itself will be several inches away from the spars.  Figuring this out required much flipping pages forward in the instructions.

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Then 1 hour was spent drilling.IMG_20150123_212857220 IMG_20150123_213838162 IMG_20150123_213304406IMG_20150123_220228592 IMG_20150123_220040453

Berck 1.5 hours, Jonah 3 hours